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The West Chester Railroad's Gay Street Station
[Posted January 4, 2006]

From 1836 to 1903, a train station stood on E. Gay Street at the present site of the Susquehanna Bank, just east of the Greentree Building. No photographs of the building are know to exist, but details are available from the 1874 "Bird's Eye View of West Chester," Sanborn fire insurance maps of the late 19th century, and accounts of fires and demolition.

In 1836, the board voted to extend the WCRR tracks into the center of town and build a frame railroad station on Gay Street. They chose a 32' wide lot donated by local businessmen and a design by Thomas U. Walter, architect of First Presbyterian Church on W. Miner Street, the Chester County Courthouse, several other buildings in downtown West Chester, and parts of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington DC.

the 1836 extension of the WCRR from
Matlack & Chestnut Sts. to Gay St. via Evans Street (from 1874
Bird's Eye View of West Chester)
1836 extension of the West Chester Railroad (from 1874 Bird's Eye View of West Chester)

The station was completed in less than a year for about $31,500. After almost going bankrupt in the early 1840s, the WCRR began to lease land around the station in 1847. In 1857, they expanded the station in an effort to compete with the new WC&PRR by constructing a new frame building with a brick facade at the end nearest Gay Street.

1886 fire insurance map
Detail from an 1886 fire insurance map

1874 Bird's Eye View (detail)
1874 "Bird's Eye View" (detail)

A second proposal to expand the station was shelved at the outbreak of the Civil War. Instead, the two railroads were consolidated and the new management shifted all passenger operations to Market Street in 1864. Downtown merchants continued to rely on the Gay Street station for freight deliveries until the PRR took it over in 1879.

In 1880, Uriah Painter, owner of a nearby lumber and ice business, purchased the station. Although he publicized several plans to develop the property, the station was used mostly as a warehouse and to receive occasional shipments for Painter's business. Neglect, accidents and fires gradually reduced the station to ruins and at the end of 1903, the Chester County Trust Company bought the property. In 1904 they demolished the station and built the structure that stands there today.


Tracing West Chester's Growth Through Maps
[Posted June 19, 2006]

Nowadays when developers think about West Chester, they think about infill development (building on one of the few remaining lots between existing structures) or, to a lesser extent, teardowns (replacing an existing structure with a new one). That is because the Borough is, in the parlance of developers, nearly "built out," meaning that every piece of land that is large enough to hold a building already does.

For the record, there are three privately-owned developable properties left in the Borough, the Paxson property at the west end of Dean Street, the Stancato property on W. Ashbridge Street and the Zukin property on N. Walnut Street. A fourth -- the Wyeth property on E. Nields Street -- has recently become available thanks to the demolition of the old penicillin factory. Other large parcels are owned by the West Chester Golf & Country Club, Henderson high School and West Chester University.

The first map is really a plan of how Borough leaders hoped the town would develop after it was chartered by the state in 1799. The plan, which was reproduced in the 1899 Centennial Souvenir page 12, shows the location of the original Turk's Head tavern at the intersection of what became High and Gay Streets. It also shows the four additional streets -- Walnut, Chestnut, Church and South (later Market) Streets which defined the four original blocks of the Borough. Notice that the lot lines, which designate properties that front on the north-south streets, never came into use. Instead, as the town grew, frontage on the Philadelphia road became more important and lot lines were laid out to provide the maximum number of properties along Gay Street.

By 1847, the grid of lot lines was extended beyond the four original blocks -- north to Biddle Street along either side of High, but especially southwest and southeast to the West Goshen and East Bradford lines. That was largely the result of William Everhart's purchase of the Wollerton farm in the southwest part of the Borough, as well as the construction of a municipal water supply with a reservoir at what is now Marshall Square Park. Notice that although the lot lines are extensive, the number of buildings (shown as black rectangles) is much less so. Note also the railroad that enters town from the northeast, and compare that to the following map, which shows a second railroad entering town from the southeast.

By 1860, West Chester had two railroads and a street grid that stretched to the Borough's northern line and into the "East End." All of the roads that led into the center of West Chester were in place -- Gay, High, New, Market and Miner Streets plus Downingtown Pike -- but the area east of Franklin Street and north of Gay was still undeveloped. Two clues are evident from the map -- the railroad and the squiggly line that represents the Goose Creek. The area around East Gay and East Market was largely swamp and not considered healthy for human housing, while the area adjacent to the railroad tracks was considered unhealthy for different reasons.

Between 1860 and 1938, the town industrialized and in-fill development was extensive, especially on the east side near the railroad tracks. Not only did the Borough acquire firms like the Sharpless Separator Works and Hoopes Bros. & Darlington Wheel Works, but developers also constructed housing for industrial workers who flocked into the Borough. Oddly enough, the street grid which stretched to the southeast corner of the Borough in 1860 was less extensive on the 1938 map, perhaps in recognition that the brick works and farms on the east side of the railroad were less likely to be developed at the end of the Depression. Other changes include the completion of W. Ashbridge Street to the Downingtown Pike, and the completion of Miner, Barnard, Union, Dean, Price and Sharpless Streets to the East Bradford line. Of course, Dean Street was never really extended west of Brandywine Street -- the last two blocks pass through the center of the Paxson property, which is still undeveloped (as of June 2006).

West Chester map
Proposed plan for the Borough in 1799

West Chester map
1847 (from the Historical Society clippings file)

West Chester map
1860 (from the Library of Congress)

West Chester map

Detail from a 1938 Chester County map

West Chester map

West Chester in the early 1960s

By the 1960s, the Borough Street grid was fairly close to its current configuration. The curving streets in the far northwest, northeast and southwest -- Maryland Avenue, Marshall/Hillside Drives and College Avenue respectively -- mark three attempts to create suburban-style developments within the Borough limits. (The fourth, Ford Circle, was not built until 1982.) Both railroad lines were still active on the east side of the Borough, and S. Adams Street had not yet been realigned along the Wyeth property in the southeast part of the Borough. W. Marshall Street extended as far as Bradford Avenue, although the Mayfield development (Norris & William Ebbs Lanes) were not yet built.

The last map was prepared by Ray Ott & Associates for the Borough's Comprehensive Plan in 2000. It uses color to show different types of land use and conveys the sense that everything in West Chester is "built out." The implications go beyond colorful maps, however. As Borough Manager Ernie McNeely told Council last fall, "Since the Borough is basically 100% built out there is little hope that new development will grow the tax base and therefore help fund the growing cost of Borough services. As such, the Borough can only count on redevelopment and perhaps intensification of use on existing parcels to create a growing tax base but this of course must be balanced with quality of life issues. The alternative to such growth and redevelopment is regular tax rate increases ..." [View complete General Borough Financial Conditions Report.]

West Chester map

From the 2000 Comprehensive Plan


West Chester's Baha'i Roots
[Posted June 12, 2006]
With most of the news about religion today emphasizing disputes of various types between factions of the world's major religions, WCJIM would like to examine West Chester's reputation for religious toleration. That reputation is of long duration, beginning in the 17th century when the Friends (Quakers) who first settled here allowed Presbyterian Scots, Lutheran Germans, Mennonite Rhinelanders and Irish Catholics to move in. That tradition continued in West Chester and resulted in 12 churches by 1879, 13 by 1896 and 20 churches by 1932. During the 20th century, it also resulted in the foundation of a Baha'i congregation. Baha'i logo
Baha'i is a religion that was founded in Persia in the first half of the 19th century. It unites all of the major world religions by viewing all monotheisms (one-god belief systems) as expressions of the same single creator. That places Moses, Jesus, Mohammed, Krishna, and Buddha on the same level, and adds figures like Adam, "the Bab" and Baha'u'llah to the list of divine Manifestations. The basic expression of the Baha'i view is that the world is one country and everyone is a citizen of that country.

The first record of Baha'i members in the West Chester area dates from around World War I. That was a time when many people in the USA and especially Europe -- which had lost millions of its citizens -- were horrified by the results the first "industrial war" in history. Along with diplomatic efforts like the Versailles Treaty and League of Nations, there were many non- governmental efforts to prevent future wars, such as the creation of the "universal" language of Esperanto. In such an environment, the unifying religion of Baha'i spread easily.

The Baha'i message reached the USA even earlier, however. It was mentioned at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893 by a Christian at the Parliament of the World's Religions. From there, it spread to the areas around Chicago and New York, and received a boost from the Hearst newspaper family. In 1911-1912 Abdu'l-Baha toured the United States, and in 1927 the son of Baha'u'bab spoke in New York City at the Baha'i Center led by Mrs. Mary Hanford Ford.

One of the first Baha'i followers in the West Chester area was Dr. Leslie Pinckney Hill, the president of Cheyney State Teachers College (now Cheyney University) and one of the founders of the West Chester Community Center (now known as the Melton Arts & Education Center). Dr. Hill worked with Alain Locke, an influential figure in the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s, on the National Baha'i Race Amity Committee.

At the beginning of World War II, a group of Baha'i began to hold regular meetings in West Chester. The instigation appears to have been a visit by Madame Ali Kuli Khan, the wife of the Persian representative to the Versailles Peace Conference, to an apartment at 17 S. Church Street.

The apartment was occupied by Jeannette Sharpless, born Jeannette Lear in 1886 in Snowshoe, Pennsylvania, about ten miles north of State College. She came to the southeastern part of the state to attend the Presbyterian School of Nursing in Philadelphia, and after she graduated, she remained in the area. Ms. Lear married Albert W. Sharpless, a member of the family that owned the Sharpless Creamery and Dairy in West Chester. Her brother Clarence also settled in West Chester and became a partner of Martin Lorgus in the Morris Nurseries located on the present site of Henderson High School.

Sharpless and her husband bought a house on W. Miner Street in 1926, but unfortunately, he died in January 1931 leaving her with two children. Fortunately, he also left an estate worth over $130,000, so she was able to stay in the house, at least at first. But some time before the beginning of 1941, she moved to the apartment at 17 S. Church Street. After the visit by Madame Khan, Sharpless began to hold regular Baha'i meetings.

Jeanette Lear Sharpless circa 1910
Jeanette Lear Sharpless circa 1910

In that first year, the group met on Sunday evenings for worship service and Tuesday evenings to study the religion. In 1944 they moved down the street to 27 S. Church Street, and after World War II was over, Sharpless organized a program to commemorate the 1819 birth of the "Bab" (a Baha'i prophet) on October 20, 1945.

In the late 1940s, their meeting place moved several times. They met in the Farmers & Mechanics Building (2 W. Market) in 1947, moved a half block east to 22 E. Market in 1948, and met at 154 E. Gay in 1955. Some time after that, Mrs. Sharpless moved to the home of her daughter Massachusetts where she died on June 5, 1960. Her obituary noted that she was "a member of the Baha'i faith."

Today, the Baha'i religion claims more than five million followers in 204 countries. Locally, there are congregations in Tredyffrin, Wilmington and Swarthmore, and members in West Chester. For more information, visit www.bahai.org or bahaibookstore.com.


Borough Botanist Was Also a Birder
[Posted February 27, 2007]
One of the byproducts of hosting a popular website with the word "history" on most of its pages is email from various researchers. Every so often, a question arrives that stumps even WCJIM. Recently he received an email from a man named Ken Kostka that began "I am attempting to locate detailed information about a Purple Martin colony transplantation project conducted by Josiah Hoopes in 1899." Since WCJIM wasn't even sure what a purple martin was, he had to do some research just to understand the question.

The Columbia encyclopedia had no listing for "purple martin," but under "martin," it said "see swallow." A swallow is a variety of birds that are found all over the world. They are distinguished by their forked tails and dark blue-black coloring, as well as their practice of feeding on insects while in flight, and their preference for nesting in flocks. The entry also mentioned that "the purple martin is deep violet with black wings and tail." Purple martins were once common throughout Pennsylvania, but the introduction of DDT after World War II seriously depleted their food supply. They suffered a final blow in 1972 when Hurricane Agnes passed through, because it generated a week of nearly continuous rain that kept insects from flying. As a result, the purple martins starved to death.

 Josiah Hoopes, founder of Hoopes Brothers & Thomas
Nursery in West Chester
Josiah Hoopes (1832-1904)
Ken Kostka (the author of the email) is a volunteer with the Purple Martin Preservation Alliance (PMPA) whose goals include the restoration of purple martins to their former habitats in Pennsylvania. He became interested in West Chester history after reading an article about a successful attempt to move a purple martin colony to a new location. The article, entitled Martins Removed to the "Zoo" described how "Josiah Hoopes, of this place" constructed a special martin house whose doors could be locked shut after the birds were inside, and used it to transport them to "the Zoological Garden, in Philadelphia."
Apparently, this was a lot trickier than it appears because martins, who migrate south each year, always return to the same location. Simply removing the martin house would not suffice because the martins would simply look for someplace else to build their nests. Hoopes devised a plan based "upon the love the old ones bore their young" to move them within a few days after their eggs hatched. He reasoned that the martins would remain at the new location in order to make sure that their young survived. Based on the above-mentioned article, his plan worked.  a purple martin in flight
A purple martin in flight
The PMPA wanted to know if the plan had really worked; i.e. did the martins return to Philadelphia the following year. To answer that, they wanted to know more about Josiah Hoopes, in the hope that his personal papers included notes on the project. They also wanted to find plans for the trick bird house so that they could build one to move purple martin colonies to new locations in Pennsylvania. The first step was to find out of Josiah Hoopes was same man mentioned on the Riggtown History Homepage as the founder of the Hoopes Brothers & Thomas Nursery in West Chester.

A quick survey of WCJIM's files showed that Hoopes was an accomplished botanist, but including nothing about any involvement with purple martins. There was, however, an 1893 newspaper clipping that mentioned Hoopes' "collection of mounted birds." A search through the Chester County Historical Society's ornithology records turned up a wealth of information about Hoopes' interest in birds, of which this is merely one sample:

Doubtless the finest collection of birds in Chester county is at the home of Josiah Hoopes, Maple avenue, West Chester, where about 6,000 stuffed specimens, all catalogued and labeled and many of them superbly mounted, may be seen by those fortunate enough to be shown through the gentleman's apartments. Every bird is American. In the same rooms are cabinets containing thousands of eggs which are arranged as carefully as the birds and which represent all the varieties which can be procured. The work has occupied forty years of the owner's life and has cost an infinite amount of work, to say nothing of the money which has been expended in laying hold of rare specimens and those which are found only in distant parts of the country.

Source: "Thousands of Birds. The Largest Flock in Chester County Seen Yesterday. A Peep at the Superb Collection of Josiah Hoopes, West Chester. Forty Years' Work" in Daily Local News (February 6, 1894), located in the CCHS clippings files, "Natural History, Ornithology, 1890- 1899."

That, plus the absence of references to any other Josiah Hoopes in the Philadelphia area with an interest in birds, suggested that West Chester's man was the one who moved the purple martins. The next step was to learn if he had left behind notes, drawings, photographs ... anything that could show how he did it and if it was ultimately successful. Since Hoopes was such a successful businessman, his life has been studied by others, including one of the archivists at the Chester County Historical Society. All reached the same conclusion that Hoopes' personal papers did not survive in any accessible collection (i.e. library or archive). It is possible that they are still in the hands of one of his descendants, but he married late (at age 66) and fathered only one child before he died. That child, Josiah Morgan Hoopes, grew up in West Chester, but he died in 1972 and efforts to locate his daughters produced no results.

Thinking that the purple martin experiment might have merited coverage in one of West Chester's two daily newspapers, WCJIM learned that martin eggs are most likely to hatch in early June and the move would have taken place in the middle of the month. He combed a month's worth of and Village Record but came up empty-handed. Unfortunately, 1899 was the year of the Borough's centennial celebration, and local news coverage in May and June was dominated by that.

The last hope was that a photograph of Hoopes' Maple Avenue home might show a purple martin house on the property. Purple martin houses are easy to recognize because they look like little "bird apartment houses" with multiple entrances on each side, situated on a pole in the middle of an open space. Unfortunately most of the photos of Josiah Hoopes' property in the Historical Society's collection focus on his business enterprises, and the only photos of his home show it from the front and on side.

 a purple martin house
A purple martin house
The PMPA crew was undaunted. Kostka's last email says that he has applied for state and federal wildlife permits to try a Purple Martin colony transplant experiment again, and added "I'm very excited about it and have high hopes. If successful, it would be a major advance for Purple Martin conservation efforts."

For more information on the Purple Martin Preservation Alliance, visit their web site or write to them at 2322 Buchanan St., Natrona Heights, PA 15065.


A Local Contribution to the Cold War
[Posted May 28, 2007]
One of the paradoxes of West Chester's history is the conflict between pacifism, as promoted by the Society of Friends, and militarism, which derived from both patriotism and the desire to earn money. The best-known story is that of penicillin, which was mass-produced on N. Walnut Street during World War II, but other West Chester factories turned out bomb parts, searchlights, fire-fighting foam and even kitchen utensils used by the military. Until recently, however, no one talked about the role played by West Chester in developing the hydrogen bomb.  November 1951 nuclear test at the Nevada Proving
Grounds -- US Gov't photo
Nuclear test at the Nevada Proving Grounds, Novembe 1951 -- US Govt'. photo
While researching another topic, WCJIM stumbled on to a short article about Herbert Smith, the owner of a trucking company named after his father Thomas Evans Smith. The younger Smith and Reed Knox drove a truck to Las Vegas in July 1951. The brief article described a 13-day trip that covered 5,378 miles (over 400 miles/day in pre-interstate America!) that passed through the "flooded districts of Kansas and Missouri" and included a stop to visit former West Chester native William Ingram and his family in Denver, Colorado. The purpose of the trip -- delivering ten tons of "equipment" manufactured by the Wind Turbine Company -- and the task was important enough to justify a special ICC permit for the two men.

Wind Turbine started out making wind-driven water pumps -- the kind you once saw throughout the American Midwest. By 1948 the company occupied part of the Hoopes Brothers & Darlington wagon wheel plant on E. Market Street, where they made steel towers for a variety of uses, but especially to support radio antennas. Their brand name -- Trylon is still in production today in Canada, but for several decades, Wind Turbine of West Chester was a major player in the steel tower industry.

The article suggested a small mystery -- why did the two West Chester men make such a long trip? There was a market for wind- driven pumps in Nevada where surface water was scarce, while radio antennas supported communication across long, empty stretches, and towers marked airfields for cross-country air routes. None of these uses justified the expense of sending a truck from West Chester to Nevada and then back again empty. It would have made more sense to load the equipment on a train -- the tracks were right next to the Wind Turbine factory -- and ship it across country by railroad. Major rail lines reached stations in both northern and southern Nevada, from whence a local truck could have easily delivered a 10-ton load.

Thanks to a bit of detective work, WCJIM was able to determine the cause. A 1956 profile of the T. E. Smith & Son trucking company described some of the firm's most unusual loads including "special equipment in connection with the government's atomic device tests" at the "U. S. Atomic Proving Grounds" at Frenchman's Flat, Nevada. According to Wikipedia, in January 1951 the US government established the Nevada Proving Ground near Las Vegas and started a series of nuclear tests that lasted for the next forty years. A local man who knew both Knox and Smith recalled the load -- a steel tower that was tested by assembling it at the corner of Market and Worthington Streets, and then disassembled for shipment out West. It is not clear what happened next, but the tower may have been the one used to detonate an H-bomb at a specific altitude on October 22, 1951. Unfortunately, the bomb failed to explode, so after that scientists relied on air drops and underground tests.

As a result, Wind Turbine got no more contracts for nuclear testing towers, although they got plenty of other government contracts for radio antennas, radar antennas and "Bomarc towers" (an early anti-missile system). Wind Turbine eventually moved out of the Borough in the late 1960s to a larger manufacturing site near Elverson. Meanwhile, the Nevada Proving Ground (later called the Nevada Testing Range) eventually hosted more than 900 atomic explosions, but that ended in September 1992.

Using the knowledge they gained from their trip out West, both Knox and Smith continued to operate their trucking companies and offered advice to anyone who wanted em make a trip out West. Eventually, small trucking firms like their's were overtaken by the same forces that did away with mom-n-pop groceries and independent movie theaters. Knox's company -- Knox & Marshman -- and Smith's company were both bought out by the Phoenixville trucking firm of Kulp & Gordon.


An Early History of West Chester University
[Posted July 29, 2007]
Although there hasn't been a lot of history published on this page lately, that doesn't mean WCJIM has neglected his profesisonal duties. In fact, he's been busy preparing walking tours for a number of groups while filling in the considerable gaps in his own knowledge while researching a book on globalization. Fortunately, he gets lots of help. One reliable source is Dick Swain, the Director of the West Chester University Library, whose own interest in local history frequently brings him into contact with interesting things. One of them is a 1972 reprint of an 1870 history of the West Chester Academy, the ancestor of today's university.

The 1870 history was written by Joseph J. Lewis and placed in a hollowed-out cornerstone of "Old Main Hall," the school's first building. It remained there for a century while the school added to is original ten acres, constructed additional buildings, and grew from 600 to over 9,000 students. When Old Main was demolished in 1972, workers searched for the cornerstone without success. Later, it turned out that a worker had carried it off, thinking it might contain money, but when he discovered that all it contained was old papers, he arranged for its return to what was then known as West Chester State College.

 Parking behind Old Main Hall circa 1937
Parking behind Old Main Hall circa 1937
The enclosed document was transcribed by Dorothy Lansing, M.D. and published as a 24-page pamphlet in 1972. It contains an introduction by Frank Helms, who was the head of the college library at the time, and includes a short biography of Joseph Lewis, a West Chester lawyer whose main claim to fame was his work on the autobiography of Abraham Lincoln published in West Chester (at 28 W. Market St. -- check out the historical marker). Lewis was also the president of the West Chester Railroad, helped to start the State Normal School in West Chester, and once owned the Spring Grove mansion in the southwest part of town.

You can read the complete text of Lewis' history. His original spelling has been maintained, so be prepared to recognize "scite" as site, read "ameable" as amiable, and ignore missing punctuation marks and irregular capitalization. Using the minutes of the Academy's board plus his own recollections, Lewis described a number of events familiar to fans of West Chester history including the construction of the West Chester Academy Building on Gay Street across from St. Agnes R.C. Church, the appointment of Humpgrey Marshall's son to the board, financial problems at the Academy, and the role played by the namesakes for a number of Borough streets including Charles Miner, Dr. William Darlington, and Anthony Bolmar.

Here's the context for Lewis' history. The concept of a "normal school" was derived from French institutions known as écoles normales which specialized in preparing teachers. Various Pennsylvanians saw a need for such a school, and as Lewis described, West Chester's first "normal school" was a private operation founded by Dr. Franklin Taylor, Dr. Elwood Harvey and Professor Fordyce A. Allen in 1852, which lasted until 1864. Meanwhile, in 1857, the state legislature passed "the Normal School Act" which divided the state into twelve districts and grouped the counties of Chester, Delaware, Montgomery, and Bucks into the "First District." The legislation provided no money with which to start a normal school, but it guaranteed teaching certificates to graduates as long as the school met certain physical requirements: a minimum of ten acres of ground, at least 300 students, and a hall large enough to accommodate 1000 people. It also had to have at least six professors plus enough tutors and assistants, and a "model school" (in which to practice teaching) that could accommodate 100 students.

The Civil War interrupted everything, but in 1869, a committee of prominent citizens met in March and organized a company to form a normal school in West Chester. A total of 74 investors bought $50,000 in stock subscriptions and raised $28,000 from the sale of the West Chester Academy property. With $15,000 from the state and a loan of $20,000, they raised a total of $113,000 and bought ten acres (at $1000/acre) on a small hill south of town, which ended at Union Street in those days. They paid local contractors Yarnall & Cooper about $80,000 to construct what J. S. Futhey described as "a massive structure, constructed of the beautiful serpentine stone so abundant in this region" using a design by architect Addison Hutton (who also designed the four greenstone mansions on W. Virginia Ave" in the north end of the Borough). Lewis' "History" was read on September 13, 1870 at the ceremony for the laying of the cornerstone, and then sealed within the building until 1972.


 

Copyright 2006 by Jim Jones